Vegard’s Ubud tips
the hotels, restaurants and places I’d choose myself

This isn’t an overview of everything Ubud has to offer. It’s the places I would choose myself: the villas I recommend to friends, the restaurants I keep going back to, and what I’d do to skip the tourist queues. It all comes from four years living in Bali and many trips to Ubud.

Looking for the overview of temples, rice terraces, yoga and culture instead? Read the big guide to Ubud.

We put your Ubud stay together with the villas and guides we know: a bike tour through the rice fields, a cooking class with a local chef and everything in between.
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Where I’d stay

You get far more for your money in Ubud than in South Bali, and the choice is huge. These are the two I recommend most often.

Villa Cella Bella is the pick when you want luxury. A private pool, lush nature all around and service on a par with the best villas I’ve stayed in.

Dewi Sri Private Villa is my personal favourite for the real Ubud experience. The owner is incredibly kind and makes the stay more than just a place to sleep. The view over the rice fields is stunning, and you feel more like a guest in a home than at a hotel.

Where I’d eat

Merlins when you want to be surprised. A creative menu and an atmosphere out of the ordinary. You leave with a meal you’ll remember.

Batubara Woodfire for meat lovers. The steak is grilled over a wood fire and is the best I’ve had on the island.

L’Osteria for evenings when you want good pasta, a glass of wine and a relaxed atmosphere. Classic Italian, and a free limoncello shot on your way out.

Taco Casa for a casual, social evening. Good tacos, strong margaritas and a great vibe.

And then there are the local warungs. The best ones have plastic stools and no English menu. Point, smile and order what the locals are eating.

Start the day at the local market and cook Balinese food from scratch with a local chef. It’s one of the best experiences in Ubud.
See the cooking class →

What I’d do instead of the tourist spots

Kajeng Rice Fields instead of Tegallalang. Tegallalang is beautiful, but from ten o’clock it’s full of tourists and sellers. Kajeng is quieter: walk the paths, watch the farmers at work and see Ubud as it really is. Go early and bring a coffee.

Sangeh Monkey Forest instead of the Monkey Forest in the centre. In the centre there have been quite a few problems with aggressive monkeys biting. Sangeh is calmer and far less crowded. You can feed the monkeys, and they’re happy to climb on you without any trouble. The forest is sacred and beautiful.

Gianyar instead of central Ubud. The neighbouring district is one of Bali’s best-kept secrets. Local markets, traditional crafts and a village atmosphere that has disappeared from the centre. Made, our guide from Gianyar, takes you to places you won’t find on your own.

Kanto Lampo, but early. One of the most beautiful waterfalls in the area, but the secret is out. Arrive after nine and there’s a queue for photos. Arrive between seven and half past, and you’ll have it almost to yourself, in beautiful light. Set the alarm.

Cycle through rice fields and villages and along the river with a local guide. One of the most popular morning tours in Bali.
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Mt. Batur at sunrise

No trip to Ubud is complete without Mt. Batur. You’re picked up around two in the morning and climb the active volcano in the dark. Between half past five and six you reach the top, and then something happens that’s hard to describe. The sun rises above the clouds, the crater lake glitters below you, and you see a Bali most people never get to see. It’s the Ubud activity we sell more of than any other. See the Mt. Batur sunrise →

When you want a bit of action

Ubud isn’t just culture and rice fields. ATV in the jungle takes you through dense forest, across rivers and along rice terraces in about two hours. Rafting on the Ayung River gives you about two hours on the water through the jungle, with rapids and calmer stretches.

My best tips

• Start your days early. Ubud is a completely different place at seven than at ten.
• Do the Campuhan Ridge Walk in the morning. A half-hour walk along a ridge with jungle views. Free and unbeatable.
• Rent a scooter for a day if you’re used to riding. It’s the best way to explore the villages around Ubud. Otherwise a private driver is easiest.
• Visit Gianyar on a weekday. That’s when the atmosphere is best.
• Book Mt. Batur well ahead, especially in high season.
• Stay at least three nights. Ubud isn’t a place you tick off, it’s a place you experience.

Distances, climate, money and transport are in the big Ubud guide.

We plan your Ubud stay from start to finish: villa, activities, driver and table bookings. Tailor-made for you.
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